Choosing between On and Hoka as the design template for your private label running line shapes every upstream decision your factory will face. Both DTC brands started in performance footwear, but they have built very different apparel ecosystems above the sole, and the OEM partner you pick has to mirror the engineering culture of the reference brand, not just the silhouette. This guide compares their sourcing, fabric, fit, MOQ, and certification playbooks so your factory brief lands clean the first time.
On was founded in the Swiss Alps in 2010, engineered around CloudTec cushioning. Apparel launched with the Performance Running collection, designed for a vertical, push-off stride. By 2024, On reported CHF 2.3 billion in net sales and apparel represented roughly 11 percent of revenue, with an internal target to push that share to 18 percent by 2026 (source: Statista — On Holding AG).
Hoka, founded in France in 2009 and acquired by Deckers Brands in 2012, was built around maximalist midsole geometry. Hoka apparel arrived later but is now embedded in trail, road, and ultra categories. Deckers reported Hoka revenue of USD 1.83 billion in fiscal 2024, with apparel growing in the high-double-digit range (source: Wikipedia — Hoka One One).
| Attribute | On | Hoka |
|---|---|---|
| Core category | Road and trail running, training, lifestyle | Road, trail, ultra, recovery |
| Design language | Minimalist Swiss, monochrome, technical trims | Maximalist color blocks, logo-forward graphics |
| Apparel share of revenue | ~11% (2024) | Mid-teens and growing |
| Apparel price point | $90–$160 | $70–$120 |
| Lead-time tolerance | Low (tight seasonal drop calendar) | Medium (parent-co inventory flexibility) |
| Primary OEM geography | Portugal, Vietnam, Italy, China for select knits | Vietnam, China, Indonesia, with growing Portugal presence |
On specs are written around run economy: high-compression warp knits, ultralight ripstop shells, and engineered mesh zones at sweat hotspots. Hoka leans on plush-feel hand, brushed-back interior knits, and abrasion-resistant outer faces for trail.
| Fabric Family | On Use Case | Hoka Use Case | Typical GSM |
|---|---|---|---|
| Recycled poly/elastane warp knit | Run singlets, split shorts | Road tees, hot-weather tanks | 110–150 |
| Brushed-back interlock | Cold-weather tights | Trail fleece midlayer | 220–280 |
| Lightweight ripstop nylon | Wind shells, packable jackets | Trail running shells | 55–90 |
| Engineered power mesh | Vent panels, internal briefs | Inner shorts, pocket bags | 80–110 |
| Recycled French terry | Recovery hoodies | Pre/post run pullovers | 320–400 |
Both brands anchor their marketing in recycled content claims. Verify Global Recycled Standard (GRS) chain-of-custody when you brief your mill (source: Textile Exchange — GRS).
On garments are cut for an athletic, slightly compressive fit with longer sleeve and short inseams to mimic racing silhouettes. Seams are taped or bonded on premium pieces, and reflective heat-transfer logos are standard on run tops. Hoka cuts are roomier through the chest, thigh, and hip to layer over base layers or to support a wider range of body types in the trail community. Flatlock seams dominate, and graphic prints use dye-sublimation rather than screen print to keep stretch intact.
| Garment Type | Style-Level MOQ | Color-Level MOQ | FOB Price Range (USD) | Sampling Lead Time | Bulk Lead Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Recycled run singlet | 800–1,200 | 200–300 | $6.80–$9.20 | 14–18 days | 35–45 days |
| 5" run shorts | 800–1,200 | 200–300 | $7.50–$10.50 | 14–18 days | 35–45 days |
| Lightweight wind shell | 500–800 | 150–250 | $19–$28 | 18–25 days | 45–60 days |
| Brushed-back hoodie | 600–900 | 150–200 | $14–$19 | 18–22 days | 40–55 days |
| Trail running tight | 800–1,200 | 200–300 | $11–$16 | 16–22 days | 40–50 days |
These bands reflect current Asia and Southern Europe OEM quotes. Add 12–18 percent for full-package sourcing (cut, sew, trim, pack) handled inside one factory.
Both brands run rigorous social and chemical compliance. Your OEM must hold or be willing to audit to the following standards before sampling is even approved:
On additionally requires suppliers to sign the Fair Wear Foundation code of conduct for any European tier-1 partner. Hoka suppliers are bound by Deckers' Vendor Code of Conduct, which references the same ILO conventions.
On's apparel cost-of-goods targets run 3 to 6 percent higher than Hoka's at the same category because of the bonded construction and Swiss-trim sourcing on technical pieces. Hoka accepts flatlock coverstitch as the cost ceiling, which keeps per-unit price competitive and supports the broader distribution model.
| Cost Driver | On Treatment | Hoka Treatment |
|---|---|---|
| Bonded vs flatlock seams | Bonded (+12–18% sew cost) | Flatlock (baseline) |
| Custom trims | Custom eyelets, custom YKK pulls | Stock YKK, branded pull tabs |
| Print method | Heat transfer + reflective | Dye-sublimation + screen print |
| Packaging | Recycled poly bag, FSC box | Recycled poly bag, recycled PET box |
Most performance apparel factories in Asia and the Mediterranean ask for 30 percent T/T deposit, 70 percent balance against shipping documents, with L/C at sight available above USD 80,000 order value. The 30/70 split is industry standard and protects both parties during raw material price fluctuations (source: U.S. International Trade Administration).
On's tier-1 apparel partners cluster in Portugal (running knits), Vietnam (training), and Italy (premium woven pieces). Hoka's tier-1 apparel partners cluster in Vietnam (core run shorts and tanks), China (fleece midlayers and trail), and Indonesia (lightweight wovens). For a private label launch, the safest starting point is a vertically integrated Vietnam or China factory with on-site knitting, dyeing, cutting, and sewing under one roof.
To compare apparel-only factories versus full-package partners, see our Yoga Set OEM Manufacturing Guide and our Tracksuit Manufacturing Guide for cut-and-sew benchmarks.
Hoka. The construction language is flatlock coverstitch with stock trims, the color palette is broader, and the factory pool in Vietnam and China is already trained to that spec. On is reachable but requires ultrasonic-bonded samples, custom-trim sourcing, and a tighter fit pattern library that fewer factories can produce consistently.
Plan for 1,000 to 1,500 units per style across two colorways, which puts you at the 2,000–3,000 unit total per drop. Anything below 800 per style usually triggers a 15 to 25 percent surcharge at the cut-and-sew line because the factory cannot amortize the fabric setup.
Typical calendar is 110 to 150 days. Add 20 days if the fabric is a new mill development, and add 10 days if you require GRS or bluesign certification on a recycled yarn. Last-minute color additions typically push bulk delivery back 25 to 40 days.
Both reference GRS for the recycled fiber chain-of-custody and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 for skin-contact safety. On also requires bluesign on technical pieces, while Hoka accepts OEKO-TEX Step or bluesign for chemical management.
Vietnam is a strong fit if you want European supply-chain proximity and shorter transit to EU retailers. China is the better fit if you need lower MOQs, more flexible dye-lot minimums, and a wider pool of technical knit mills under one roof. For a first drop under 5,000 units total, China usually wins on lead time and cost.
Sign a mutual NDA before tech pack transfer, register your designs in your home jurisdiction, use staged sample releases, and keep your brand-marking trims (custom eyelets, custom zippers, branded heat transfers) under direct contract with the trim supplier rather than the cut-and-sew factory. Splitting the supply chain across trim and sewing is the most effective copy protection.
Brief Hoka if you want the lowest-risk, fastest-to-market run line with a forgiving MOQ and a cost ceiling that supports a $80–$110 retail apparel price point. Brief On if you are willing to invest 4 to 6 months longer in development, accept a higher per-unit cost, and want to charge a $120–$160 price point for a clearly engineered, minimalist silhouette. The OEM partner you pick should have a documented run-knits track record and should be able to walk you through their recycled-content sourcing chain on the first call.
For a side-by-side look at brand-level production economics, see our analysis of Outdoor Voices vs Girlfriend Collective sourcing.